Heritage of ancestral know-how
For centuries, the art of hatmaking has relied on precise and specialized tools that have survived the ages without undergoing major modifications. These instruments, inherited from a long artisanal tradition, are essential to every step of hatmaking. Although materials and styles have evolved over time, the tools and techniques have remained true to their origins. In this article, I invite you to discover some of these iconic hatmaking tools, focusing on those I use daily in my work.
Swallow 
The gully is a small tool used by the hatter when shaping the hat to position the string and slide it along the shape. It can be made entirely of wood or consist of a turned wooden handle with a flat, rounded piece of metal at its end. The edge of this piece is grooved to guide the string precisely.
Hat shape
The hat form, made primarily of linden wood, is an essential tool for shaping a hat. There are specific forms for each size and style, such as fedora, cloche, and bowler hats, which allow for the crown to be molded directly. However, we only use round forms to define the base and size, as we mold all crowns by hand, ensuring a unique and artisanal work for each creation.
Formillon 
The hat form is a complementary tool to the hat form, also made of linden wood. There is a form for each hat size and it is specially designed to work the head entrance, ensuring a perfect fit.
The keel
The keel is a linden wood tool used to shape the "bottom" of the hat. It helps to relax the base of the felt and create the necessary depth for the crown, thus ensuring a balanced and well-defined shape.
Entrance meter 
The entreometric is a precision tool used to measure the exact size of a completed hat. With this instrument, the hatter can check the final dimensions of the hat and ensure they are as expected.
The straightener
Made of either wood or metal, the smoother is used to flatten the felt at the junction between the brim and the hat post. This tool creates a clean, precise angle, ensuring a neat transition between the different parts of the hat.
Sewing machine
The sewing machine, well known to all, is an essential tool in hat making for quick and precise stitching. However, in our industry, a large number of seams are done by hand to ensure more personalized and artisanal work. The machine nevertheless remains a tool that we use daily.
The hat brush
The brush, made of a wooden handle and boar bristles, is an essential tool for maintaining the felt throughout the manufacturing process. It allows you to dust and clean the felt. In addition to being used during creation, the brush is also essential for the regular maintenance of the hat, helping to preserve its appearance and quality over time.
The hat enlarger 
The enlarger is a wooden tool designed to adjust the size of a hat by enlarging it by one or two sizes. It consists of a two-part cap connected by a worm screw, which allows the hat to be gradually increased in size without damaging it.
The conformer
The conformer, invented in 1843 by Allié and Maillard, two French hatters, is a traditional and precise tool used to determine the perfect shape of the skull to create custom hats. This instrument makes it possible to perfectly adjust the hat to the unique morphology of each customer.